Time and again at tastings, bottles of McLaren Vale shiraz empty well ahead of their more delicate, cool-climate peers. People praise the latter, but drain the former. Why? It seems nothing pleases the senses more than a deep, dark red, rippling with earthy, ripe fruit flavours, backed by savour and tannin. Pleasingly, the pleasure remains in reach as even the modestly priced d'Arenberg Footbolt delivers the true Vale experience. It's ripe, rich, fruity, savoury and satisfyingly grippy, without being heavy or porty.